Yep, still alive.

I’ve started these updates a million times over. I’ve thought of emails I need to write, things I need to catch everyone up on, those of you who have been worried, curious, or just plain peeved that I’ve slipped off the face of the earth and not bothered to stay connected. I wish I had a good excuse, like I’ve discovered a new species of pygmy manta rays or uncovered a magical healing source deep in the jungles or found the cure for idiots. Sadly, I can lay claim to none of these. I don’t even really have any good tales to tell and that is what makes me ashamed most of all. My “adventure” has become less of an adventure and more of a “settled” and that, my friends, must change soon. Isn’t that why I left home in the first place?!

Where do I start? What have I told you? Pretty much nothing? Excellent. Let’s keep it that way. Awww!!! Now that’s not very nice! I’ll try to fill in the blanks without too much rambling but come on now, it’s me; there will be excess rambling by the buckets full.

Still in Southern Mozambique, Tofo Beach, and still living a simple, surreal life. Did I mention, have I told you, do you know that I have a new job yet again? I’m the smiley, chatty, receptionist at Diversity Scuba, the finest dive shop in Tofo. It’s actually the dive shop where Natalia (remember my house mate?) and a few very dear friends work so life has fallen into place oh so nicely (and yes, it is the finest dive shop in Tofo). Started half time in early Sept and have been left to run the full time show since mid Oct. Haven’t burned the place down or thrown us into massive chaos yet so things seem to be going okay. Receptionist work, well, not my most ambitious goal, but folks, when the shop is slow, the weather is good, and I’ve sorted out all of the messes that can be created being part of a busy business in Africa, I hop on a boat and dive my little heart out. And, shamelessly, get paid to do it. Couldn’t ask for a better shop owner and manager, both of whom are keen to get me in the water as much as I can because the more I know the sites, the better I can chat it up to customers. Hmmm… like I really need another excuse to be in the water. Seriously, all good.

The only bit I continue to struggle with somewhat is the amount of time at work. I now fall into that 6 days a week, 10+ hours a day schedule. All we do is work. My entire life is at the shop. Often times, we’ll hang around or meet up with friends to try to get some sense of a life instead of going home after the doors close but there are other days where it’s all we can do to drag our sorry asses that long walk home. And that one precious day off? Sleep, clean, try to catch up. This is why three months has passed me by in the blink of an eye. I can’t think of much else that I have done other than work. But don’t get me wrong!!! I am so thankful for the job and quite grateful for the opportunity to become a fully integrated part of this community. It’s quite easy to see how people can get lost here. The beauty of this place when you can separate out the tourist bit of it all is overwhelming. I am in one of the most unique marine life environments on the planet. I have been able to dive and snorkel with creatures that are so incredible they are almost magical. My whole world comes together under these waters… it’s challenging and frightening one day, peaceful and full of bliss the next. All I want to do is dive. So I work hard, smile harder, and say “pretty please?” the next time I see the chance to hop on a boat. My life is very, very surreal.

That being said, other than the location, life here is very, very normal. It’s a tourist town despite the lack of many modern conveniences or western marketing, it’s a town of white faces and constant transients. We wake up, we work, we swim, read, or run errands in a spare moment if there is one, visit friends, we go to dinner, we chat, and we carry on. English is spoken (shame on me and my zero effort for learning Portuguese!) backpackers pass through, and most of us continue to look at what is just down the road once our time here is up. There are some lifers here, business owners or property gurus, and those of us who have proper jobs are usually on that one year or so commitment, but yeah, that “this is Africa, baby” feeling is a bit absent. A stunning holiday down that I wish all of you could see, but only if you’re going to dive with me. 

I have to look back on some of the blogs I started earlier to try to cut and paste some funnies… hold on… ahhh… found one…

Have I mentioned the *kiss kiss*? Oh so lovely… now. Being Canadian, having grown up in the 3rd largest country easily laying claim to the largest sense of personal space, it of course took me some time adjusting to the overcrowding of SE Asia and then the pile on top of each other of Africa. I think I’ve managed most of the situations without too many major faux pas and have learned to smile, or grimace, and go with it. Here, in Tofo, the atmosphere is very European, being a Portuguese settled country. The “local” (those of us who live here but aren’t from Mozambique) population is a mixture of South African (again, for another day), European, and a smattering of former British colonies. As I was initially being introduced around town and the new friend leaned in for a *kiss kiss* hello, once or twice it resulted in me either bending over backwards, almost in half, hands raised in a “woah, back off!” gesture, as I wasn’t sure why this person was suddenly so close to my face, or embracing the greeter in a full body hug as they ended up air kissing a mouth full of my hair. Umm… oops… awkward. Thankfully, as I’ve said, most people here are very, very kind so my social silliness has long since been forgiven and I have eagerly jumped on the *kiss kiss* bandwagon. A very old school, classic movies, pretentious and posh tradition that I am determined to bring back to life if ever I return to the North American locale. I love *kiss kiss*.

Then there are the logistical bits. Like visas. Anyone who has travelled can share my pain. The “laws” governing Mozambique visas have a tendency to change on a daily basis. So after many long & miserable journeys, heads banged against tables, and excessive amounts of cash that I simply don’t have, a temporary and creative solution has been found. Don’t need to share the details as African police officers, immigration officials, and dark, dingy prisons aren’t on my to-do list for my time on this continent but I want to stay for a while and stay I will. It’s Africa baby, just make it happen.

Oh and how about this fun little bit? Being that this is a tourist town (mostly for hordes of South Africans), there is a boat load of cash to be made during the holidays. That being said, Natalia and I are homeless from Dec. 23 – Jan 3. Our landlord can ask as much per day as we pay per month, so yeah, we are kicked out to couch surf and rely on the generosity of those with a more secure abode. There are some comfy sofas at the dive shop should all else fail but again, so many nice people here, so many (hopefully) good friends that I don’t think I’ll have trouble finding a place to lay my head each night. The only real hassle will be temporarily packing up the home and living out of the backpack again but hey, it will get me used to what I hope to do be doing again soon. So please, if any of you have time, pass the word on to Santa that I’ll be transient on the 25th so not to worry about me too much this year. Thanks. 

The 25th. Christmas day last year I was bundled and backpacked, saying goodbye to family at the Halifax airport bound for Africa and all of its unknowns. Far too little of Africa has been experienced and I can’t tell you where the year has gone or what I have done with it but it feels like a million years have passed. I don’t miss many material luxuries anymore and I’ve learned what “bare minimum” can look like but I’m starting to get very itchy feet ( I REALLY can’t stand that phrase! SO gross!) While I’m thankful for the strangely comfortable life I have set up here, I’m eagerly anticipating being on the move. Thinking back to the brief transition of exploring those bits of Tanzania before heading down here … exhilarating. Stepping on or off of a bus or plane or the back of a random pickup truck not really knowing what is actually just ahead, it’s calling to me. Time to move, time to move, time to move…

I don’t really have any plans at this point other than hopefully getting my hands on a new credit card (mine expired and the new one has been “lost in the mail”). So for the next few months at least, I will continue to hunker down and see what, if any money at all I can try to save so that I can continue the journey. It’s frustrating because the more I see, the more people I meet, the more stories I hear, the more my fire is fuelled. But Africa is expensive folks, more expensive than I could have ever imagined, and my independent wealth has not quite been realized as I continue to float through my silly life. Regardless, I count my blessings and the stamps in my passport while I stare at world maps and try to figure out how I can find my way there and there and THERE! Oh there are so many “theres” I want to see… Any and all of you are welcome to join the ride, it is one heck of a ride!

The people I’ve met here continue to amaze me. Everyone has a story, everyone has seen and done things I could only dream of. The places people have been and the experiences that have been had, completely inspiring. If only I had had my mid-life crisis 10 years earlier, I would have half of the globe covered by now. The more time I’m away, the harder it is to imagine being “settled” ever again. A 9 – 5 job, a vehicle, a mortgage, that whole “Hi honey, I’m home” thing has never seemed so foreign, so far away. I promise that I’m not turning into some loopy, hippie, drippy burnout, I promise that I continue to be very responsible and conservative by most standards here, but yeah, the disconnect to North American life is becoming more and more pronounced. Strange. Good thing? Bad thing? Really no idea. But I’m learning to not over – think and just live. Not like me AT ALL! But it’s good, it’s all good.

Summertime on the South East coast of Africa has arrived with a vengeance and all of that dripping wet heat and offensively stifling odour has returned. Wow. Hearing about the massive snow storms that seem to be crippling every major city at the moment while we are bathed in stinky sweat is just incomprehensible. That being said, I miss curling up in a nice big hoodie wrapped tightly in a soft fleece blanket watching the white stuff pile high outside the window. No matter how far I roam, I will still be Canadian at heart. Forever and ever.

So on that note, I will sign off so that I can actually get this posted. Shame on me for being so terrible about keeping in touch but I promise that I am okay. Thank you to those of you who are still interested in me and where in the world I am, thank you for helping this disconnected spirit to remain connected in some small way. As I’ve said before, it really is too easy to disappear here. Far too easy. But I won’t, I can’t, and it will not happen. I will try to find more stories to tell, more adventures to have, and more things to keep looking forward to… this girl has lots to do before she’s done.

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and all the very best for every other festivity that is happening right now. I will play in the sand and go for a swim in the sea as I miss all of you on that one day of the year when being together really counts. My heart is home right now. All my love.